Last checked: October 12, 2026 · Sources: T-money intercity bus, Kobus, Jinju Intercity Bus Terminal, Gurye, Sancheong and Namwon county pages, Korea National Park Service — linked below.
The easiest way from Seoul to Jirisan is a direct bus: Dong Seoul Bus Terminal runs eight buses a day to Baekmu-dong (about 4 hours, from 39,500 won), and a nightly 23:00 bus to Seongsamjae for the Nogodan side. For Jungsan-ri and Cheonwangbong, take a bus from Seoul Nambu Terminal to Jinju (about 3 h 30 min), then the Jungsan-ri bus (9 a day, 1 h 15 min). For Hwaeomsa and Seongsamjae in daytime, ride to Gurye, then the county bus; until Dec 10, 2026, the Gurye route to Seongsamjae only works on weekends and public holidays. Trains reach Gurye-gu Station, but the trailhead buses start at Gurye bus terminal.
Road closure, Oct 12 – Dec 10, 2026: the 1.4 km road from Siamjae rest area to Seongsamjae rest area is closed to all vehicles on weekdays (Mon–Fri). It’s open on weekends and public holidays. Gurye County hasn’t published a changed Nogodan bus timetable, so on weekdays assume the Gurye bus can’t reach Seongsamjae and call Gurye bus terminal (061-780-2730) or Gurye County (061-780-2436, weekdays) before you go.
What we saw on the booking sites (checked Oct 12, 2026)
- Fri, Oct 16 and Fri, Oct 23: Dong Seoul added extra night buses to Seongsamjae and Baemsagol at 22:40 and 22:50, besides the usual 23:00.
- Friday and Saturday night buses were nearly full a week ahead (Oct 16: 1 seat left on the Seoul Nambu → Jungsan-ri 23:30; Oct 17: 2 seats on the Seongsamjae 23:00). The Sat, Oct 24 Seongsamjae bus was already sold out.
- Seats come back when people cancel: the Oct 16 Jungsan-ri bus was sold out on Oct 8 but had a seat again on Oct 12.
- The direct Seoul Nambu ↔ Jungsan-ri buses ran only on certain days: night buses out on Friday and Saturday, one bus back at 15:00 on Saturday and Sunday.
Which trailhead, which Seoul terminal?
| Trailhead | Best for | From Seoul | Change? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Baekmu-dong (백무동) | Jangteomok, Seseok shelters, Cheonwangbong from the north | Dong Seoul, 8 buses a day; Seoul Nambu, 2 | Direct |
| Seongsamjae (성삼재) | Nogodan, start of the main ridge | Dong Seoul night bus 23:00; daytime via Gurye | Direct at night, 1 change by day |
| Hwaeomsa (화엄사) | Long climb to Nogodan | Seoul Nambu or Central City to Gurye | 1 change |
| Jungsan-ri (중산리) | Shortest climb to Cheonwangbong, Rotary and Jangteomok shelters | Seoul Nambu to Jinju; Fri and Sat night direct | 1 change (direct some nights) |
| Baemsagol (뱀사골, Banseon) | Valley trail up to the ridge | Dong Seoul night bus 23:00; daytime via Namwon | Direct at night, 1 change by day |
Our take: for a two-day ridge walk, the classic plan is in at Seongsamjae and out at Jungsan-ri or Baekmu-dong. Book the 23:00 Dong Seoul bus to Seongsamjae and you start walking at dawn without paying for a night in Gurye. Leave by Baekmu-dong if you can: it has the most buses straight back to Seoul.
Dong Seoul to Baekmu-dong, Seongsamjae and Baemsagol
All Dong Seoul buses to Jirisan are run by Hamyang Jirisan Express (함양지리산고속) and sold on T-money.
Dong Seoul → Baekmu-dong (weekday and Saturday, same times)
| Departs | Class | Adult |
|---|---|---|
| 07:00, 08:20, 10:30, 15:20 | Deluxe (우등) | 39,500 won |
| 13:20, 17:30, 19:00 | Premium (프리미엄) | 51,400 won |
| 23:59 | Late-night premium (심야프리) | 61,700 won |
T-money estimates about 4 hours. Seoul Nambu also has two buses to Baekmu-dong, at 16:50 (deluxe, 39,500 won) and 19:40 (premium, 51,400 won), about 4 h 10 min.
Night bus to Seongsamjae and Baemsagol
| Route | Departs | Adult | Timetable estimate |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dong Seoul → Baemsagol | 23:00 | 46,100 won | 3 h 30 min |
| Dong Seoul → Seongsamjae (Nogodan) | 23:00 | 49,700 won | 4 h |
Both are late-night deluxe buses (심야우등). The Seongsamjae bus was on sale on every date we checked, from Oct 14 to Nov 7, and on Fri, Oct 16 there were two extra departures (22:40 and 22:50). The night bus climbs from the Dalgung (Namwon) side, not the closed Siamjae road, and it was still on sale for weekday dates when we checked on Oct 12. That’s not officially confirmed, so check with T-money (1644-3070) if you’re going on a weekday. There is no bookable bus back to Seoul from Seongsamjae or Baemsagol, so plan your exit from another trailhead or via Gurye.
Night buses put you at the trailhead around 3 to 4 a.m. Jirisan trails open at 03:00 from April to October and at 04:00 from November to March (KNPS entry-time rules), so in winter you may wait in the cold. Each gate also has a daily cut-off; our Jirisan shelter booking guide lists the main ones.
Coming back from Baekmu-dong
| To | Departs |
|---|---|
| Dong Seoul | 07:20, 08:50, 11:30, 13:30, 14:50, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00 |
| Seoul Nambu | 10:50, 14:20 |
The last bus to Seoul leaves Baekmu-dong at 18:00.
Seoul Nambu to Jungsan-ri (Cheonwangbong side)
Option 1: via Jinju (every day)
Seoul Nambu has 28 buses a day to Jinju Intercity Bus Terminal (진주시외버스터미널) on a weekday, from 06:00 to 23:45, about 3 h 30 min. Fares: 36,100 won deluxe, 44,000 won premium (46,900 won on Fri–Sun), 27,700 won for the 06:00 regular bus.
From the same terminal, the Jungsan-ri bus (via Deoksan) leaves at:
| Jinju Intercity Bus Terminal → Jungsan-ri | Fare | Time |
|---|---|---|
| 06:10, 07:50, 08:40, 10:35, 12:40, 13:40, 15:30, 17:30, 20:10 | 8,100 won | about 1 h 15 min |
These times come from the terminal’s route page. They can’t be booked on T-money, so buy at the terminal. Take a Seoul Nambu bus to Jinju, not a train or express bus. KTX trains stop at Jinju Station and express buses from Seoul Gyeongbu at Jinju’s express terminal. The Jungsan-ri buses leave from the intercity terminal.
Option 2: the direct night bus (Friday and Saturday)
Seoul Nambu → Jungsan-ri at 23:30, late-night deluxe, 46,700 won, timetable estimate 3 h 50 min (Busan Gyotong). We found it on sale on Fridays and Saturdays only. Weekend night buses sell out early, but cancelled seats come back on sale.
Coming back from Jungsan-ri
| Route | Departs | Fare |
|---|---|---|
| Jungsan-ri → Wonji (원지) | 06:40, 08:00, 09:40, 10:30, 12:20, 14:20, 15:20, 17:20, 19:40 | 5,100 won |
| Jungsan-ri → Seoul Nambu (Sat, Sun) | 15:00 | 38,900 won |
T-money estimates 1 h 20 min for the Wonji bus. We found the 15:00 direct bus only on Saturday and Sunday, and T-money marked it as bookable in its mobile app (“모바일예매가능”).
Wonji is a bus stop on the Seoul Nambu route, so you can change there instead of going to Jinju. On Sunday, Oct 18, Wonji had 18 buses to Seoul Nambu, the last at 22:30. Buses toward Jungsan-ri may also stop at Wonji, but no official timetable lists their times there and T-money doesn’t sell them. For the trip out, Jinju is the safer transfer.
Gurye: for Hwaeomsa and daytime Seongsamjae
Seoul → Gurye bus terminal
| From | Departs | Fares | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Seoul Nambu (T-money) | 06:40, 09:00, 11:00, 13:00, 14:30, 16:20, 17:40, 19:30 | 31,600 won deluxe, 41,100 won premium (13:00, 16:20), 24,300 won regular (19:30) | 3 h 10 min |
| Central City (Kobus) | 13:00, 16:30, plus 07:20 Fri–Sun | 31,900 won deluxe, 41,500 won premium (16:30) | 3 h 45 min |
Back to Seoul: Gurye → Seoul Nambu at 06:50, 08:20, 10:20, 11:50, 13:50, 15:50, 17:50 and 19:50 (the last one). Gurye → Central City at 09:10 and 16:25, plus 13:40 Fri–Sun.
Gurye → Seongsamjae (Nogodan bus)
The county’s Nogodan bus runs from Gurye bus terminal via Hwaeomsa to Seongsamjae, from late April to mid-November.
| Days | Gurye departs | Seongsamjae departs |
|---|---|---|
| Mon–Thu | 09:00, 14:20 | 10:00, 15:20 |
| Fri–Sun, public holidays, summer holiday season, autumn-foliage season | 08:40, 10:20, 14:20, 16:20 | 09:30, 11:20, 15:20, 17:20 |
Fare: 5,000 won (a seated bus with its own fare). Until Dec 10, 2026, the Siamjae–Seongsamjae road is closed on weekdays (see the box at the top), so on Mon–Fri assume this bus can’t reach Seongsamjae. The last bus down from Seongsamjae is at 15:20 or 17:20, depending on the day. Gurye’s timetable is dated June 2026, and the county notes that times can vary a little.
Gurye → Hwaeomsa
Ordinary county buses run from Gurye terminal to Hwaeomsa about 16 times a day, from 06:40 to 20:00. All county buses cost 1,000 won.
Can you take the train instead?
Yes, to Gurye-gu Station (구례구역) on the Jeolla line. Gurye County’s station timetable (updated March 23, 2026) lists these trains:
| Train | Departs | Arrives Gurye-gu |
|---|---|---|
| KTX 505 | Yongsan 08:40 | 11:05 |
| KTX 509 | Yongsan 10:55 | 13:23 |
| KTX 583 (via Seodaejeon) | Yongsan 14:40 | 17:53 |
| KTX 515 | Seoul 16:38 | 19:15 |
| ITX-Saemaeul 1081 | Yongsan 08:47 | 12:41 |
| Mugunghwa 1501 | Yongsan 05:46 | 10:17 |
Going back, Gurye County’s station timetable lists KTX trains from Gurye-gu at 05:36, 08:25, 09:19, 12:43, 15:34 and 18:42 (the 05:36, 08:25 and 18:42 run to Haengsin via Seoul Station), plus 17:24 on weekends. Korail changes timetables during the year, so confirm times and fares on Korail before you go. We couldn’t check train fares for this guide.
Our take: the train is a backup, not the first choice for Jirisan. Gurye-gu Station is not the bus terminal where the Nogodan and Hwaeomsa buses start, Gurye’s county timetable has a Gurye-gu/Aprok line (about 20 buses a day from the terminal, 06:30 to 19:30), but it doesn’t list times at the station, so allow extra time or take a taxi. When the Gurye buses are sold out, though, the train is a good fallback. For buying tickets with a foreign card, see how to book KTX as a foreigner.
Getting to Baemsagol in daytime
Namwon runs the Jeongnyeongchi loop bus (정령치 순환버스). It’s 1,000 won and doesn’t run on Mondays. It resumed on Sep 2, 2026. From April to November, the run via Inwol stops at Banseon (반선), the Baemsagol trailhead:
| Namwon Station | Intercity Bus Terminal | Inwol | Banseon |
|---|---|---|---|
| 08:25 | 08:35 | 09:15 | 09:45 |
| 12:50 | 13:00 | 13:40 | 14:10 |
| 16:00 | 16:10 | 16:50 | 17:20 |
Back from Banseon at 10:40, 11:25 and 16:25, reaching Namwon Station at 12:05, 12:50 and 17:55. From December to March it runs a shorter schedule.
To reach Namwon, Central City has 7 express buses a day (weekday), 07:30 to 20:40, 30,000 won deluxe (20,400 won for the 16:05 standard bus), about 3 h 10 min. Kobus lists the arrival as “남원”. We haven’t confirmed it’s the same terminal as the loop bus stop, so check before planning a tight connection.
How do you book these buses as a foreigner?
- T-money intercity bus (Dong Seoul and Seoul Nambu routes, Gurye, Jinju, Wonji): txbus.t-money.co.kr in Korean, or intercitybuse.tmoney.co.kr in English. Search 동서울 or 서울남부, then the destination: 지리산(백무동), 노고단(성삼재), 뱀사골, 구례, 진주, 원지, 중산리.
- Kobus (Central City ↔ Gurye and Namwon express buses): kobus.co.kr, English in the language menu. You can pick a home ticket or mobile ticket, and change the time once for free up to 1 hour before departure.
- Local buses (Jinju → Jungsan-ri, Gurye county buses, the Namwon loop bus): you can’t book these. Pay at the terminal or on the bus.
Neither booking site says whether foreign-issued cards work. T-money’s English guide only warns that some check cards and corporate cards may be restricted. Book a few days early so you can buy at the terminal window if your card is declined. You’ll also need mobile data on the trail and for live bus apps. See eSIM vs USIM vs pocket Wi-Fi.
Step by step, with cancellation fees and what to do if your card is refused: how to book Korea express and intercity buses as a foreigner.
How does this fit with a shelter booking?
Jirisan shelters are booked by lottery, two months at a time. Get the shelter first, then book buses to match. In our check, the night buses and weekend morning buses were the first to fill.
| Shelter | Nearest trailhead for the bus |
|---|---|
| Nogodan | Seongsamjae |
| Jangteomok, Rotary | Jungsan-ri |
| Seseok, Jangteomok | Baekmu-dong |
The lottery dates and steps are in our Jirisan shelter booking guide.
If the plan goes wrong
“The night bus is sold out.”
Try the other trailhead: Seongsamjae and Baekmu-dong night buses leave Dong Seoul at 23:00 and 23:59. Or ride to Gurye in the evening (last Seoul Nambu bus 19:30) and take the first Nogodan bus in the morning (until Dec 10, 2026, weekends and public holidays only). Cancelled seats come back on sale, so search again the day before.
“I missed the last bus off the mountain.”
The last buses are 15:20 or 17:20 from Seongsamjae (weekends and holidays only until Dec 10, 2026), 18:00 from Baekmu-dong to Dong Seoul, and 19:40 from Jungsan-ri to Wonji. After that you need a taxi or a room near the trailhead.
“The Gurye Nogodan bus isn’t running.”
It only runs from late April to mid-November. Outside that season, call Gurye bus terminal (061-780-2730) before you go.
Help
- T-money intercity buses: 1644-3070
- Kobus (express buses): 1644-9030
- Jinju Intercity Bus Terminal: 1688-0841
- Jungsan-ri bus terminal: 055-972-1116
- Gurye bus terminal: 061-780-2730 · Gurye Yeogaek (county buses): 061-782-5151
- Namwon Yeogaek (loop bus): 063-631-3116
- Korail: 1588-7788
Read next
Sources
- KNPS notice, Sept 14, 2026 — Siamjae–Seongsamjae road closed on weekdays, Oct 12 – Dec 10 (Korean)
- T-money intercity bus booking — Dong Seoul and Seoul Nambu to Baekmu-dong, Seongsamjae, Baemsagol, Gurye, Jinju, Wonji and Jungsan-ri, with return trips (live searches, Oct 8, 2026)
- T-money intercity bus, English reservation guide
- Kobus timetable search — Central City ↔ Gurye and Namwon (live searches, Oct 8, 2026)
- Kobus booking guide
- Jinju Intercity Bus Terminal — route guide (Jungsan-ri times and fares)
- Sancheong County — Seoul direct bus (Seoul Nambu → Jungsan-ri)
- Sancheong County — intercity bus terminals and phone numbers
- Gurye County — bus terminal times and fares (timetable dated June 12, 2026; page updated Oct 2, 2026)
- Gurye County — Gurye-gu Station train times (updated March 23, 2026)
- Namwon City — Jeongnyeongchi loop bus resumes from Sep 2 (notice, Sep 2, 2026)
- Korea National Park Service — trail entry-time rules (입산시간지정제)
- Korail, English site